Light plumbing too.

Faucet repair and replacement (kitchen, bathroom, utility), toilet repair and replacement (running toilets, fill valves, flappers, full swaps, flange repair), garbage disposal repair / replacement / installation, dishwasher installation, shut-off valve and supply-line replacement, water line and leak repair (exposed lines, under-sink, supply joints), and outdoor spigot / hose bib repair. Drain cleaning and hydro jetting remain our core specialty.

Billed at $95/hr — you pay for the time we're on site. Most jobs wrap in an hour or less. Written estimate before we come out or before any work begins. No diagnostic fee, no surprise charges. If we're there for a drain call and handle a light-plumbing item on the same visit, you get one written estimate covering both.

Yes — including pulling the old unit, hooking up the new water supply, drain line (to the garbage disposal or air gap), and securing it to the cabinet. If the install needs new wiring (hardwired with no existing junction box), we coordinate that part with an electrician. Most dishwasher installs wrap in 1–2 hours when the rough-in is ready.

A like-for-like faucet swap with existing shut-off valves and supply lines is genuinely a DIY-able job for handy homeowners. Where we earn the call: when the existing shut-offs are seized or leaking, when the supply lines are corroded, when the rough-in dimensions are different, when there's tight clearance, or when the previous installer used over-tight basin nuts. We handle those for you in about an hour.

Usually not. The most common cause is a tripped overload reset (red button on the bottom of the unit). After that: a jammed impeller (we free it with an Allen key from below), a tripped breaker, or a failed wall switch. If the motor is genuinely dead — humming or stone silent with power confirmed — replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair for residential disposals.

Yes for exposed water lines (basement, under sinks, behind washing machines, utility room), shut-off valves (under fixtures or at the main), and supply-line leaks. If you can see the leak, we can usually fix it. We do NOT do in-wall water-line installation, water-heater work, gas-line work, or full repipes — those need a Master Plumber license and we refer to one we trust.

Yes. Running toilets, weak flushes, slow refills, leaking tanks, and wax-ring / flange repairs are all standard calls. Most repairs use a universal fill-valve / flapper kit and wrap in under an hour. Full toilet replacement, also yes — including hauling away the old unit.

Water heater install or repair, gas-line work, in-wall water-line installation, full repipes, bathroom or kitchen remodel plumbing, septic work, sewer-line excavation, boiler and radiant work, pipe lining, backflow testing. Anything that requires a Master Plumber license is outside our licensed scope — we refer to a licensed Master Plumber for those.